Frequently asked questions

General

1. Where can one find technical data sheet and safety data sheets?

The technical data sheet and safety data sheets for each product can be found on this homepage in the respective product description.
2. What is the correct way to dispose of European Aerosols products?

Product packaging (aerosol cans, filler cans, etc.), the contents of which have been completely used, can be disposed of with household waste. Please dispose of containers with material residues via special waste. Please note the information from the DSD disposal company (green dot).
3. I do not like the paintwork. Can I remove the paint?

It is best to remove the paint immediately after painting with nitro dilution or acetone.
AQUA spray oaint can be washed with water and a surfactant cleanser within 20 minutes.
4. What is the difference between 1-coat and 2-coat paintwork?

1-coat (single-layer) paintwork does not require coating with clearcoat.
2-coat (dual-layer) paintwork is usually required where special pigments are used, for example in metallic/pearl/mica colour car paints. The clearcoat protects the pigments from the influence of weather and optimises the shine of the coating.
5. I did not spray the can to empty. Can I store it and continue to use it later?

Spray paints are closed paint systems. This prevents the paint from drying out and we can guarantee a shelf life of 10 years. However, practice has shown that paint sprays still function perfectly 15 – 20 years after production! Of course, correct storage is important.
With most sprays from European Aerosols, self-cleaning valves ensure that the spray heads are drained. But if you want to be completely sure, simply turn the can upside down and press the spray head for 2 – 3 seconds. In this way, only propellant gas is ejected and the valve and spray head are cleared of active substance residues (paint residues).

Surface

1. How can you paint perfectly on Styrofoam?

• Paints, i.e. also paint aerosols, usually contain solvents that attack and dissolve the Styrofoam. One exception here is water-based paint (DUPLI-COLOR AQUA ECO+). These can be safely painted directly onto styrofoam.
• The DUPLI-COLOR range has a special colour range: "Deco Matt" These paints contain a special solvent that does not attack the polystyrene surface.
• If you use the special styrofoam primer of DUPLI-COLOR, you can then coat the styrofoam object with any solvent-containing paint. Important here: The primer must completely cover the entire surface of the styrofoam and separate it from the subsequent coat of paint.
2. What must be observed when painting hard plastics?

Plastics are sensitive to solvents and react strongly to temperature fluctuations (flexibility). In addition, you are working with a very smooth surface, which does not allow lacquer to adhere well. Therefore, pre-treatment with a plastic primer is absolutely necessary. This forms a paintable bridge between the plastic surface and the subsequent paint layer. The plastic primer is sprayed on thinly in one coat.
3. Why is the paint not adhering properly?

Perhaps the substrate was not completely sanded, clean, dry and free from grease (silicone-free)? If necessary, use a degreaser or silicone remover before painting.
For problematic surfaces, use specialist primers, e.g. for coatable plastics, a plastic primer or a styrofoam primer for styrofoam.

Application

1. Why do many products have a spray protection ring? What should be considered?

The red spray protection ring was developed to prevent unwanted spraying (e.g. by children or vandalism in the retail environment). This small red ring is located under the protective cap and under the spray head. When you remove the spray head, the ring can be easily lifted up and removed with a pointed object, e.g. a screwdriver. Please do not use force here, as this could damage the can and the contents could leak out.
Important: the spray protection ring can be inserted again afterwards.
2. What is spray mist and how do I reduce its effects?

At warmer temperatures, but also if the distance to the object to be painted is too large when spraying, the paint will dry while still in the air and will no longer reach the object to be painted. This air-dried lacquer settles on the surface as spray mist. Please note the spraying distance indicated on the product instructions. It should always be painted in a wind-protected area to prevent particles from settling from the spray mist on the still-wet, painted surface. The amount of spray mist that can occur depends on the amount of paint, the ventilation (wind conditions) and the application. Spray mist can spread around a room up to 10 metres. Therefore, it is recommended to cover the surrounding area carefully and extensively.
3. My paintwork has runs. How can I avoid this?

Spray crosswise (horizontally – vertically). Start spraying outside the object. Press the spray head firmly during movement. Move the spray can slowly and evenly back and forth and carry out the turning movement around the outside of the object. This is the best way to control the spray jet and avoid too much paint on the surface, which leads to “tears” or “runs”.
The spraying distance to the object must not be too small. Information on the spraying distance can be found on the respective product label; it is usually 15 – 25 cm.
The optimal processing temperature is between 15° and 25°C (room temperature). The paint can, the object to be painted, and the spatial environment should be at this temperature.
Do not attempt to achieve a smooth, opaque surface immediately during the first spray. Spraying several thin layers is better than applying the paint in a thick layer.
4. My paintwork looks like the surface of an orange. How can I avoid this?

If the spraying distance is too large or the temperature is too high (>25°C), the paint will dry in the air. This mist can be reflected on your painted object in an initially matt surface. When you paint another layer, small elevations form, referred to as “orange peel”.
5. Why is the paintwork peeling off?

The surface should always be more pigmented than the subsequent paintwork. Primers are highly pigmented, clearcoats do not contain any colour pigments. The optimal structure is therefore primer – colour paint – clearcoat. In addition, the surface should be ground and cleaned before applying the primer or paint. A structure with paints from different manufacturers can also lead to intolerances. Therefore always use products from the same manufacturer on an object.
The paint cannot stick to smooth plastic surfaces. To avoid flaking, the object must always be pre-treated with a plastic primer. To clean the plastic surface, use plastic cleaner beforehand.
6. Why are wrinkles forming on my paintwork (paint "pulls up")?

Synthetic resin may only be painted over with synthetic resin. The solvents in the synthetic resin evaporate slowly, while solvents in quick-drying acrylic varnishes evaporate quickly. If you then paint a quick-drying acrylic paint on a synthetic resin, the solvents in the acrylic paint will dissolve the layer underneath. Since the quick-drying acrylic paint surface seals faster than the underlying dissolved synthetic resin can dry, the varnish swells up and forms unwanted creases.
If synthetic resin paint is painted with synthetic resin paint, it must be noted that this is done within 2 hours after the first paint or only after 24 hours, otherwise the same "tightening" effect arises here.

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